All Of The Above

Intro - Part 1 - Part 2 - Part 3 - Part 4 - Parts List - Final Welcome back. So now the short block is disassembled and I am taking time to clean all of the parts very carefully. A lot of people ask, "what should I use to clean these parts?" and I would have to say that kerosene works great for this job. Just make sure you have proper ventilation and a big exhaust fan is highly recommended if possible. You really only need about 2-3 gallons to clean all the motor parts. Next I will explain how I went about cleaning the engine parts and what tools were used. Rotor housings: On the 13-B motor, the rotor housings are the 2 aluminum sections where the rotors rotate (the combustion chambers). I was pretty lucky that my housings were in good shape after having 90k+ miles on them. I noticed a little carbon buildup around the spark plug holes which I cleaned off with a clean rag and kerosene. These housings should have a somewhat shiny surface on the inside and no grooves...

Intro - Part 1 - Part 2 - Part 3 - Part 4 - Parts List - Final I have stripped everything down to the short block and now needed to remove the large nut off of the back of the eccentric shaft. The socket needed is either a 2 1/8" or 54mm. If you need either of these I would suggest to ch eck your local Harbor Freight or go to HarborFreight.com. If you have trouble locating the socket online, give them a call to get pricing for a set that includes one of these sockets because I have seen them on the s helves and the whole set is cheaper than any single 2 1/8" socket I have found elsewhere. Next, you will need to secure the flywheel which will prevent the motor from turning so that you can remove the flywheel nut. You can either purchase a flywheel stopper/brake or simply grab a few feet of solid copper wire and wind it through a bolt hole and around one of the clutch alignment pins on the flywheel as I have shown in the photo to the left. This worked perfect for me,...